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Touring Roswell, New Mexico - UFO Capital of the World!

       Pat Garrett, Robert O. Anderson, Nancy Lopez, John Chisum, J. J. Hagerman, Pecos Bill, and Billy the Kid

   

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ROSWELL HOME PAGE

About Roswell
The Real Roswell
Roswell History

1947 UFO Crash
The Events
The Locations
UFO Museum
UFO Festival
Souvenirs
The Song

Characters, Events
(coming soon)


Tour Roswell
Highlights
N of Courthouse
Courthouse, Pioneer Plaza
S of Courthouse
Historic District
NMMI
Spring River Bike Trail
Hondo River, Chihuahuita
RIAC
NE Roswell
SE Roswell
SW Roswell
NW Roswell
Roswell with Children
Travel Updates

About the Book
Roswell, Your Travel Guide
Table of Contents
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Roswell, New Mexico—East and Southeast


Some of Our Attractions:

“The Silver Dome” Bargain Barn (301 East 2nd Street). From 1939 to 1964 the Roswell Cotton Oil Company used this structure as part of a cottonseed processing operation located in several buildings in this area. Cottonseeds “ginned” from the cotton (separated from the white fibers) were stored in this huge space while waiting to be processed in the next building to the south where machines crushed the seeds, extracted the cottonseed oil, and compressed the remaining hulls into solid cakes to use for cattle feed. The imposing “Silver Dome” has served many purposes over the years. Today’s owners use it as a second hand store for furniture, appliances, and miscellaneous “stuff.” It’s worth a visit just to step inside the cavernous dome—or to check out their selection of deer and elk antlers. 627-7411. Open M-Sat 10-6, closed Sun.

Hagerman Canal (5 miles—8 km—east of Main Street). Lincoln County Sheriff Pat Garrett became famous after killing Billy the Kid in 1881—partly because of his own book, The Authentic Life of Billy the Kid—but many questioned the way he had shot Billy. Leaving law enforcement, Garrett moved his family from a ranch near the town of Lincoln back to his ranch (not currently accessible to the public) four miles (6 km) east of downtown Roswell that he had previously homesteaded in 1880. Here he and his wife reared their seven children.

In 1888 Pat Garrett joined Carlsbad wheeler-dealer Charles Eddy and several others to begin constructing the Northern Canal—now called the Hagerman Canal—as a part of a grandiose scheme to make a fortune by bringing irrigation water from the Hondo River to farmlands south of Roswell. They built a diversion dam on Garrett’s ranch and began digging the canal using plows, graders, and scrapers pulled by horses and mules. The expense proved too great however, until wealthy Pecos Valley developer J.J. Hagerman finally invested in the company, but even he didn’t finish the canal that eventually stretched southward thirty miles (50 km) until 1895. Although Pat Garrett had conceived the idea, Hager-man gradually took over the company and forced Garrett out, but Hagerman ended up losing much of his own fortune in the scheme. Today the canal endures, still providing irrigation water to Pecos Valley farmers south of Roswell.

When Chaves County split off from Lincoln County in 1889, Pat Garrett hoped to return to law enforcement by running for Sheriff of the new county. He lost the election so he continued to concentrate on ranching in Roswell and Texas for several years, with variable success. In 1896 he moved to Las Cruces and be-came Sheriff of Dona Ana County, then Teddy Roosevelt appointed him Customs Collector in El Paso in 1901. Garrett returned again to ranching when he lost that job. He died in a controversial incident in 1908; his alleged killer, Wayne Brazel—cousin of the man who would first report finding the 1947 UFO crash—was ac-quitted of the murder.

Currently, plans are underway to erect a statue of Pat Garrett by Texas sculptor Robert Summers in the area across Virginia Avenue from the Chaves County Courthouse.

Pecos River (7 miles—12 km—east of Main Street). The 900-mile-long (1,450 km) Pecos River begins as a clear mountain stream in the Sangre de Cristo Mountains of Northern New Mexico. It flows due south, picking up silt as it travels through the High Plains down to Roswell. One small dam near Fort Sumner, 85 miles (137 km) north of Roswell, interrupts its flow and farmers divert much of its water for irrigation so that most of the year shallow channels of muddy water wind between banks and bars of red mud here near Roswell, but it can fill up during spring runoff.
   
Although they brag about him much more in Texas than they do here (isn’t that always the case?) the Southwest’s “rootin-est, tootin-est cowboy,” Pecos Bill, whose exploits rival those of Paul Bunyan in the North Woods, took his name from this muddy river. Some say his legend grew out of tales told by cowpunchers trying to outdo each other around evening campfires.

The first bridge over the Pecos River in the Roswell area was built in 1902 about one and one-half miles south of where the highway crosses the river here. Prior to that, the only nearby way across the river was on a ferry operated by Juan Chaves y Lopez (1826-?), or by fording the stream during low water—both dangerous undertakings because of currents and quicksand.
Double-ended quartz crystals called “Pecos Valley Diamonds” are found in the weathered Permian rocks just east of the Pecos River. They come in all sizes, from tiny single crystals to fist-sized clusters. Sandy areas along the river are the best places to hunt for them—watch for rattlesnakes! The best places to find them are in the Historical Center Gift Shop or at the Chaparral Rockhound Society’s Gem and Mineral show in June.

In frontier days the Pecos River defined the limits of Eastern civilization. In fact, “to Pecos” a person became a well-known phrase—and solution—around early Roswell. It meant to dump a formerly troublesome fellow, often a rustling varmint, into the river—as a way of disposing of the body. “Law West of the Pecos” in towns like Roswell was often non-existent, and when it appeared, Justice was swift and absolute. One example: In 1878 one of John Chisum’s young cow-boys shot and killed his crew boss near here for reasons unknown. Chisum assembled a jury of other cowhands on the spot and presided over the trial himself. The jury found the boy guilty of cold-blooded murder and Chisum pronounced sentence. There were no trees in the vicinity so the cowboys propped up a wagon tongue and tried a rope to it. They sat the boy on a horse, tied the rope around his neck, and led the horse out from under him.

Some of that frontier mentality remains today. Not too long ago a young Chaves County lawyer asked an experienced judge why he had sentenced a car thief to more time in prison than another man convicted of killing his neighbor in a water dispute. “Some men just need killing,” the veteran judge replied, “but there are very few cars that just need stealing.”

Comanche Hill (8 miles—13 km—east of Main Street). Roving bands of Comanches, the Shoshone group that gave this bluff its name, moved south from Wyoming and reached Texas and New Mexico by the 1700s where they quickly became fine horsemen after obtaining the animals from the Spanish. Known as fierce fighters, these nomadic bison hunters raided other native groups, especially Pueblos, Navajos, and Apaches, as well as Hispanic and Anglo settlers.

In the early days, the Pecos River formed a general dividing line here in Southeastern New Mexico between Apaches who usually stayed to the west and Comanches who roamed to the east. Before 1875 when the United States Army interned the last bands of Comanches at Ft. Sill, Indian Territory (later Oklahoma), Comanche Hill marked the beginning—or the end, depending on which way you were traveling—of fearful Comanche territory.

Bands of white gypsum, some of it grading into harder but easily sculpted alabaster, appear in the road cut here. This high point on the edge of the Permian limestone plateau east of Roswell provides a nice view of the Pecos Valley and the Roswell area, especially after dark when their lights are twinkling.

Nancy Lopez Elementary School (1208 East Bland Street). Nancy Lopez, the first Hispanic LPGA Champion, won a total of forty-eight Ladies’ Professional Golf Association tournaments after becoming Rookie of the Year in 1978 and Player of the Year in 1978, ’79, ’85, and ’88. She still plays occasionally in tournaments and exhibitions.

Born in California in 1957, Nancy Lopez was the daughter of Mexican immigrants Maria and Domingo Lopez. The family moved to Roswell when she was a child, where her father operated the East 2nd Street Body Shop (615 East 2nd Street, no longer standing) and the family lived at 1103 East 1st Street. Lopez played golf with her parents at the (then) rather primitive Roswell Municipal Golf Course, now the Spring River Golf Course adjacent to Cahoon Park. She later explained to sports writers that as Hispanics her family was not allowed to join the nicer Roswell Country Club. She managed to win the New Mexico Women’s Amateur Championship in 1969 at the age of twelve anyway. It took an ACLU challenge to the School Board to gain her a spot on the Goddard High School golf team however—not because she was Hispanic but because she was female, as there was no girls’ team at that time. When she was finally allowed to join the boys’ team, they won two state championships.

In spite of these difficulties Lopez described growing up in Roswell as “wonderful.” Attitudes have changed some since her childhood. A sign in the Goddard High School cafeteria now proudly proclaims, “Nancy Lopez ate here,” and in 1991 the School Board changed the name of Flora Vista Elementary School that Lopez attended as a child to Nancy Lopez Elementary School.

El Charro Mexican Food Industries (1711 South Virginia Avenue). Fresh tortillas and other Mexican food products, as well as a peek inside a tortilla factory, are available here at Southeastern New Mexico’s oldest Mexican food company. 622-8590. Open M-F 8-5, Sat 9-2, closed Sun and holidays.

Antonio Trujillo (1910-1982) and his wife Aida (1915-2008) opened their first tortilla factory in the garage of their small house on Deming Street across from Missouri Avenue Elementary School in 1949. At that time tortillas were hardly known and rarely eaten by Anglos, while Hispanic families made their own at home. The Trujillos bought a machine that could produce 80 dozen tortillas an hour. Fortunately for their business, it also produced a whistling noise that attracted curious children on their way home from school. The Trujillos gave them free samples to taste and to take to their families, and before long Anglo as well as Hispanic families were buying El Charro tortillas to use in tasty dishes that Aida helped popularize. As the business expanded and they opened additional tortilla factories in Lovington and Amarillo, the Trujillos became active in civic affairs and won numerous awards over the years.

Today, grandson Michael Antonio Trujillo operates the company that now employs 18 workers and produces 4,000 dozen tortillas an hour from corn grown in Muleshoe, Texas. Carrying on his other family tradition of civic involvement, Trujillo serves as Chaves County Commissioner and even performed his duties long distance while serving with New Mexico National Guard’s illustrious 200th Air Defense Artillery in Iraq throughout 2006.

Bottomless Lakes State Park (East on 2nd Street 12 miles—20 km—then south on NM 409 3 miles—5 km). Ground water dissolved gypsum, salt, and even some of the limestone itself from the Permian limestone plateau east of Roswell over the centuries, creating passageways and caverns along fissures in the rock. When large underground cavities collapsed they formed sinkholes in the flat surface topography. Seven of these striking water-filled sinkholes make up Bottom-less Lakes State Park—New Mexico’s first state park—built here by Civilian Conservation Corps workers from the Bitter Lakes CCC Camp (a New Deal pro-gram to provide work and training to young men during the Depression) during the late 1930s.

Cowboys called these small round lakes bordered by red bluffs “bottomless” because, as Billy the Kid once explained to a curious newcomer, he and some of his friends could not find the bottom, even when they tied their picket ropes together and put a weight on the end. Billy knew this area well. During the Lincoln County War he hid out in caves here, with help from John Chisum’s nephew Will Chisum, while his wounds healed after Deputy Sheriff Matthews—later a Roswell Postmaster—shot him when Billy ambushed and killed Sheriff Brady.

The park provides hiking, camping, fishing and, in the summer, swimming and paddle-boating. Watch out for rattlesnakes! A small Visitor Center presents occasional evening nature programs during the summer, and the Bottomless Triathlon takes place here in July. Scuba classes use 90’ (32 m) deep Lea Lake for training and certification dives. 624-6058.

Dairy Farms (East of the highway). Roswell calls itself “The Dairy Capital of the Southwest” with more than fifty dairies operating along the Old Dexter Highway between Roswell and the small town of Dexter 15 miles (24 km) to the south. Abundant cattle feed along with low operating costs brought dairy operations here beginning in the 1980s. Now, wealthy dairy operators are rapidly joining ranchers and oilmen as the “aristocracy” of Roswell.

Throughout the Oil Patch, noxious fumes from oil wells and refineries have traditionally been described as “the smell of money.” Today in Roswell, when the wind and humidity are right, a “dairy odor” wafts through town as the new “smell of money.”

Jinglebob Land and Livestock Company (former South Spring River Ranch)
(at Brasher Road). John Chisum, “Cattle King of the Pecos,” (p 46) moved his vast cattle empire headquarters here to South Spring River Ranch along the South Spring River in 1875. He constructed a large adobe house, along with barns, bunkhouses, and other ranch buildings, then began breeding short-horned cattle and experimenting with growing alfalfa and various grains. The “Jinglebob Ranch,” as it was nicknamed because of the distinctive earmark Chisum used to identify his cattle, was a social center for all of Southeastern New Mexico. Billy the Kid worked around the ranch for a time before the Lincoln County War and was rumored to have carried on a romance with Chisum’s attractive niece, Sally Chisum, who served as ranch hostess.

After Chisum’s death in 1884 other family members proved to be poor managers and his cattle empire dissipated. Mining and railroad millionaire J.J. Hagerman bought South Spring Ranch (he and subsequent owners dropped “River” from the name) in 1900 after ten years of developing irrigation and rail-road projects in the Pecos Valley. Hagerman planted large fruit orchards on the land and shipped railroad cars of apples to markets “back east,” as can be seen in photos hanging in the Roswell Public Library lobby. He also raised cattle but his cattle business was more of a costly hobby than a successful enterprise. Hager-man demolished most of the original Chisum buildings and constructed his own three-story red-brick mansion on the property, along with other ranch buildings. A barn and the mansion—with the top two stories removed—are just barely visible in a grove of trees about one-half mile east of the highway a little south of Brasher Road. The main entrance to the ranch is a little farther south.

After Hagerman’s death in 1909 the ranch passed through several owners. In 1968 Roswell oilman Robert O. Anderson purchased South Spring Ranch and family members lived here for a time. The current owner, Tom Visser, continues to raise cattle that still carry the Jinglebob earmark, but like most everyone else, he is also planting pecan orchards. Irrigation wells have dried up the springs that fed the South Spring River, so that today all that remains are the two dry river beds (one for each of the two forks that joined between the highway and the ranch house) that cross the highway between Brasher Road and East Grand Plains Road. Peter Hurd’s mural Round Up at South Spring 1875 in the Student Services Center at ENMU-R gives a good idea of what the ranch must have looked like when the South Spring River was full and flowing. Tours charge a small fee to visit the ranch during Old Chisum Days in June.

Leprino Mozzarella Factory (5600 Omaha Road). Leprino’s multi-story factory is visible to the west where the highway crosses East Grand Plains Road. At night its brightly lit structure looms eerily in the dark countryside like a freighter arriving from some unknown galaxy.
The large number of dairy farms in the Pecos Valley brought Leprino Foods to Roswell in 1994. This world’s largest Mozzarella factory—Roswell’s largest private employer—produces 600,000 pounds of pre-shredded, quick-frozen cheese each day from six million pounds of milk. Nearly 500 workers keep the factory operating 24 hours a day, seven days a week, completing the entire process from pasteurizing the incoming milk to packaging and shipping the frozen shredded cheese to commercial buyers. Workers even process waste materials, separating out clean water to use for irrigation and solid waste to become fertilizer. No retail sales of its cheese are available but the Leprino Mozzarella Factory is open for tours for a small fee during the Chile-Cheese Festival in September. 347-9998.

 

For more complete information about touring Roswell . . .

BUY the paperback version (single copies or in bulk) of  Lynn Michelsohn's guidebook
 Roswell,
Your Travel Guide to the UFO Capital of the World! 
 
also $9.99 on Kindle (readable on Pad, PC, Mac, iPhone, Blackberry, Android, etc.),
 and available from other online booksellers, through your local bookstore, or on NOOK.
 

Also available . . .

Roswell, NM: The Ten Best FREE Things To Do (Plus a Few More)
 Your Brief Travel Guide to Fun in the UFO Capital of the World!

 $2.99 on Kindle, also on NOOK 

 

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